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When compiling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might expect familiar award-winning establishments. Yet, nestled prominently among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the owners completely surprised.

“I’m totally shocked,” remarks a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their humble shop securing such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the fare, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is set to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary honour.